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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert based in the West Coast who specialises in grey hair. He works with Jane Fonda and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I highly recommend a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. Many are unaware how much stress a regular bath towel can do, particularly for silver or chemically treated hair. A simple switch can really minimize flyaways and damage. A second budget-friendly essential is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while removing knots and helps keep the health of the hair shafts, notably following coloring.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals melt their hair, experience breakage or end up with uneven tones that are extremely difficult to fix. It's best to steer clear of long-term smoothing services on pre-lightened strands. These chemical systems are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply colour-correcting purple shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with stiff, brittle hair. Another significant problem is thermal styling minus a barrier. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest follicle treatments containing stimulants to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps clear out buildup and allows solutions to be more efficient. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Follicle Expert and head of a renowned clinic services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had significant shedding – and also now while experiencing some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say medicated treatments. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the most effective improvements. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Also, high-dose biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What blunder stands out often?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the contrary is accurate – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If oils are left on your scalp, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it shouldn't harm your hair.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will resolve on its own. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus